Day two, we were set on seeing Osaka, despite being told it’s a bust and no fun. In drier but not much warmer weather, we arrived in our next city. Our plan, gimmicky though it was, was to hit Osaka Castle, Kaiyukan (the aquarium) and ride the world’s largest Ferris wheel. The sun came out briefly as we walked up the hill toward the castle, but as we arrived it actually began to snow and hit us with blustery wind. We picked up some takoyaki (fried octopus balls, a local specialty) beforhand—they were pretty good. While we were eating, a couple of miko (shrine maidens) came down from the nearby temple to order from the stand as well. I’ve never seen miko before, and it’s not likely that I will again. They don’t come out often.

<<As I was writing this paragraph, an earthquake happened.>>




The castle was appropriately beautiful and grand, though a remake of the original. The interior was a little museum, at which we purchased some samurai t-shirts with funny English on them. (I hadn’t brought warm enough clothing because I had expected nicer weather, so I had taken to layering t-shirts the whole weekend.) The view from the castle is also one of the best in the city (I think the castle is on the highest point in the city).

From there, we hit up the Kaiyukan, which is right on Osaka Bay. It’s new, and really quite fun. I’d recommend it to anyone in the Osaka area with a free afternoon. It’s one of those places that makes you feel like a kid again. Next to the aquarium is the Ferris wheel, which we managed to get on right as the sun was going down. So we got not only a beautiful view, but a beautiful view with the sunset as a backdrop. Seriously, don’t not do this in Osaka. It’s awesome. Afterward, we had dinner in an okinomiyaki restaurant, another regional specialty, which was delicious and fun (they cook it on your table). After a little shopping, we went back to the hostel* for another excellent night’s sleep.

* Every night of the trip, we went out to the public baths to get clean and relax after a long, hard day. I highly recommend this, not only because the showers in the hostel had no water pressure, but it’s also much better for your body, and it feel just so darn good.


More of this story is still to come.